How To Do Transmission Service On 2010 Mariner Awd

past Scott Ammerman
Quadratec Channel Correspondent

I received a lot of flak from close friends when I bought my Jeep - non considering they idea information technology was a bad determination, simply because they were surprised I hadn't washed it sooner. Meet, I spend a lot of fourth dimension in the mountains, and so owning a vehicle with this much utility actually makes a lot of sense. The other thing they gave me problem well-nigh was my automatic manual. Of all the vehicles I've endemic in my lifetime, this is the only one that is "missing a pedal".

Of course, one time I explained that I'll be going stone crawling a lot and this was an intentional option, they understood the reasoning. Getting diagonal on sea of rocks and using a clutch is not impossible, just just having to focus on "go" and "stop" pedals makes things a whole lot simpler. Believe me, I'1000 not talking down on transmission transmissions! I own 2 other cars with manual, so at to the lowest degree my friends can't call me a total sellout.

With that said, automatic transmissions do require a piffling more attention than manuals. I'll salve you all the tech-speak as automotive sites like Jalopnik take great descriptive articles on how automatics actually work, but for this piece we desire to focus on servicing the transmission and so information technology tin continue to perform well.

The ATF +4 inside my 2008 Wrangler's 42RLE automatic transmission is made of pretty durable stuff. Of course, nothing lasts forever - this fluid needs to be make clean to do its job, and the filter inside the transmission sump should exist replaced regularly to make sure it stays that fashion. We've already added a Flex-a-Lite Translife cooler to drop the operating temperatures, simply this service volition keep things running smoothly.

My transmission pan shows no signs of removal since it rolled off the showroom flooring, and with just over 120k on the odometer, I'm at the mileage Jeep recommends for a transmission service on "light duty" use. If ofttimes used for off-roading, snowfall plowing or towing, the interval is 60k. Many people actually recommend changing it every 30k if you tackle challenging terrain on a regular basis. Since this Jeep led a very dull life before I got behind the wheel, I'one thousand not too concerned almost the lateness of this beginning filter change, just I'll be doing it more oftentimes moving forward.

List of parts/tools needed for transmission service:

Transmission fluid filter and o-band (Purchased from my local Jeep dealer)
Five quarts of ATF +four
A gasket scraper
A can of brake parts cleaner (or a parts washer, if available)
High temp black RTV
10mm socket (I used both ⅜" and ¼")
¼" universal joint
¼" extension, around 8"
10mm offset wrench
T-25 Torx bit
A large fluid catch pan
A big apartment bladed screwdriver or prybar to separate the seal (possibly a hammer)
A long funnel for adding transmission fluid
18mm socket (for removal of Rubicon factory manual sideslip plate, if equipped)

..and here we go:

Performing a 42RLE manual service isn't terribly complicated, merely it does have a few catchy spots because of the exhaust pipe that runs sideways covering the rear of the pan. In that location are three bolts back there that can be more than a niggling frustrating. I would recommend starting with them - at least break them free earlier you have fluid leaking all over. That fashion, if you need to buy or borrow more tools, you won't have to rely on another vehicle. Also, this guide is for a basic manual service and the manual actually holds somewhere around 12 quarts of ATF. This process is preventative maintenance and will not bleed the torque converter or get every single drib of fluid out, and is not meant to fix shifting quality issues if you are experiencing them. If your fluid appears or smells burned, you may desire to pay a shop to practise a full ATF affluent.

This is also a messy job, no matter how you look at it. Having a grab pan that is larger than the transmission pan is certainly helpful, but doing this job without getting ATF all over you is unlikely. I'll try to give y'all warning before all the really messy parts. This is a perfect opportunity to wear clothes you really don't similar.

If you have a Rubicon factory skidplate nether your transmission, remove the three 18mm bolts and set up them out of the way.

Starting at the back, remove the 10mm bolts that hold the pan to the manual. For the 2 towards the middle, I used a ¼" universal joint and 10mm socket. Pushing up on the exhaust pipage gave me a footling more room to work every bit information technology is a tight expanse. The one all the way over to the commuter's side was easier with a 10mm start box wrench than it would have been with a socket. The more than bolts yous remove, the more fluid will start coming out, so take the catch pan ready underneath.

Go along two bolts on opposing corners loose, but threaded in a few turns, just in instance the sealant decides to let loose earlier yous're ready. When y'all practise break the seal between the case and the pan, these volition keep it from falling down with a splash and spreading enough red liquid all over your workspace to make it wait like a offense scene.

With all the bolts but those final two removed, insert the edge of your screwdriver or pry bar in betwixt the pan and the transmission instance on the front end side. A twist of the handle was all it took to break the seal on mine, then exist fix for an ATF waterfall on all sides. A few gentle taps with a hammer might exist required for a stubborn 1, but in either example, be prepare to get your hands out of the way.

After the bulk of the transmission fluid stops flowing, it's time for a balancing act. At that place is still about ii quarts of fluid left in the pan, and y'all demand to clear the exhaust pipe and the filter within while removing it. Support the pan with one hand in the middle like you're delivering a pizza, and remove those last ii bolts. Get slowly, you demand to motion forward and downward to clear those obstacles without spilling. When yous get it clear of the manual, bleed it into your catch pan.

The valve body and filter will continue to drip manual fluid, then get out your catch pan in place. Take the manual pan elsewhere for cleaning. First, remove the magnet from the bottom that catches bits of metal suspended in the fluid and wipe information technology make clean. I cleaned it and put it dorsum in the lesser of the pan and then you lot know what y'all're looking for. In my instance, the particles were barely visible and very tiny, so that is a practiced sign my transmission internals have a lot of life left. Larger, sharp edged particles are certainly a sign of trouble.

Make clean the pan as much equally possible past wiping it out with a shop towel to remove whatsoever sludge, and then employ a scraper to remove all the silicone sealant from the pan as well as the transmission instance. Give it a concluding spray downward with restriction parts cleaner to make sure you got everything, and set information technology bated to dry.

Next, slide back under your Jeep and remove the ii T-25 Torx bolts belongings the filter assembly, and drop information technology gently into the pan. Make certain you locate and remove the original o-band, as it may be in the filter or within the tube. Put the new o-ring on your new filter, slide it in and commodities it back in place.

With everything on your transmission pan make clean and dry, employ a thin bead (similar 6mm wide) of black RTV around the perimeter of the pan, beingness conscientious to encircle the bolt holes and non go out any gaps. Drop that clean magnet back in its trivial indentation in the bottom of the pan, and then reinstall the transmission pan before the RTV cures (mine had to exist done inside ten minutes). Torque the bolts to 14.5 ft/lbs, as you don't want to deform the pan effectually the bolts.

After reinstalling the pan, remove the dipstick and add four quarts of transmission fluid. Put the dipstick dorsum and start the Jeep and allow it to run for about 5 seconds, and so shut it off. Look 30 seconds and repeat. Now check the transmission fluid level - it may be around the lesser of the dipstick in the cold range, or slightly below. Start the Jeep back up, and run it through each gear with your foot on the brake, staying in each for around xv seconds. Do this twice, and permit the engine to run for nigh twenty minutes to get up to operating temperature. Check the fluid with the engine running, and fill to the condom range between the "hot" marks. I added a total of only under five quarts.

Now, head out and have about a 20-mile drive and and so check the fluid level i concluding fourth dimension while parked on a completely level surface - but to make sure everything looks good.

The Jeep Wrangler's 42RLE transmission can certainly exist reliable, but fluid temperature and quality are essential to ensuring a long life. For the next service, I may add together a drain plug to the bottom of the manufacturing plant sump to brand this procedure a little easier.